Fire it up!

You should be able to fire it up, even if you have done like me and removed the LMM wiring, however, it might run a little rough. What you will need is to put the the filters, LMM, rubber bends and so on back. Without the correct resistance for the inlets it will more or less instantly go into Limp home mode.

Putting the ETAs back in the car

There should be clamps on the rubber tubes that are underneath the ETAs, they were missing, so replaced them with stainless ones, the real ones are just spring loaded.

Also take the opportunity to grease up the linkages for the throttle:

I also usually put some aluminium paste on the screws:

Connect everything as it was, I put waterfree grease on all electric connectors, the one I use is for putting on battery connectors, but vaseline will do you just as fine, important it is has no water in it:


Left ETA connector

Put the left ETA connector together according to your mapping and put your protective sheathing on the wires:

Decide to lock the cable inside the aluminium housing with glued shrinktube this time:

Not prettys, but it will be watertight and hold up:

Glue the connector halves back together:

Cleaned up, paint and shrink tube later:

Left ETA connector

Again, remove the red O-ring for protection:

Again, cut and crack it open:

Pry the two halves apart, make sure to note which way they were, since there is both alignment hole in the middle of the connector as on the outside of it. If you get this wrong the connector will not fit the socket in the car:

Two locks on the black ring:

Get all the wires with pins out, one wire broke off for me, not a good sign:

Get your soldering iron out and remove all the pins from the wires, clean them off (old residue) with some alcohol:

New wires in place:

Mapping left ETA

Start your mapping with your multimeter and cutting one wire at a time:

My mapping in Swedish, also containing new colour of wires and sizes:

Spjällhus pin Kontaktpin Originalfärg Ny färg Ny kabelarea mm2
e 1 Gul Gul 0,5
g 2 Vit Vit 0,5
b 3 Brun Brun 0,5
Motor +, övre 4 Svart Svart 1
h 6 Lila Blå 0,5
l 8 Grå/Svart Grå 0,5
f 10 Grön Grön 0,5
Motor -, undre 11 Blå Blå 1
k 12 Vit/Brun Brun 0,75
i 13 Vit Vit 0,75
c 14 Röd Röd 0,5

When mapping is done, yank the cable out of the ETA. Seen better days:

Cut the cable as close to the plastic seal as you can and use some brute force to get it off, usually if you turn it with a polygrip it comes loose fairly easy:

Left ETA

Alright, let’s get going with the drivers side ETA. It has a longer cable then the left side, make the new wires 90 cm and you have some to extra:

It also has the hardware for not “drive by wire”, would guess “limp home mode”:

Same tragic inside, but it has more wires, 11 in total, 3 different sizes:

Remove the locking ring:

Removing the ETAs

The Airfilterbox, the LMM and the rubber bend for the intake needs to be out of the car for this operation.

You can see the right side ETA located in the top right corner, it has 4 Allen screw and some rubber tubing both on top and underneath:

Be careful when removing, it has a gasket, it costs about 15 SEK, but a hassle to order. The ETAs has connectors on the fenders, it has a plastic lock and needs to be yanked out. Here the ETA is removed and the gasked is visible on the intake:

Left side ETA is similar, but also has som linkage and a spring from the acceleration pedal: