I did it the wrong way, the sheathing first, then I had to get the housing over the sheathing and then adjust the length of all wires individual to make the pin part go back inside the connector, it worked, but the way to go is toput the pin part back in the housing and then put the sheathing on:
I will heatglue the sheathing to the housing where they join and on top of that glued heat shrink tube, remember to put all shrink tube and so on now, before you start working in the other end.
Since you need 25 different coloured wires for this and the Radox only comes in 11 I realised I needed to find another supplier. Unfortunately the 3 different major companies I spoke to said same thing, we have 11 colours and no 2 coloured wires. Decided to use the 11 Radox and add something else (Radox is definately overkill).
So, where to go?
Spoke to Seth that has a Ebay store in UK and he delivered 15 different coloured wires in 2 m lengths for me that were perfect, shipping was incredibly fast and he has 60 different colours, not to mention price, Radox is extremely pricey compared:
Once I took such a “pin housing” apart and almost broke it and still ended up doing it this way, nowadays I don’t even bother, this is the way to go, cut the wire 5 mm above the housing, solder a new wire there and some shrink tubing on top:
Also measure in the other direction for the rest and also for all the injection wires from the plastic plate and out to the connector, also made notes of which connector is what and what pin wires go to, also what kind of sheathing it has since I will reuse them probably, put everything in a speadsheet:
First, it is this large connector that connects the engine with the computer box, the plastic cover above this needs to be removed. The connector itself has a lock as ALL other connector on the car.
The cover for the airfilter also needs to go, the harness runs in front of the air box, the top of the metal “wall” is fitted with 2 screws, needs to be loosened to get the cable out, also a plastic tubing for vacuum on the right intake needs to be loosened to get it out.
Here the top of the harness is disconnected and the first of the 12 injector connectors that has two metal locking clips that needs to be pushed to get them out:
In the front of the engine there are several connectors to different sensors, some of them usually cracked, fortunately these are very cheap:
Bottom one here can for some reason be inserted in different positions, sloppy MB, it does however have numbered pins, just be careful:
Then after some careful documentation with camera and reoving several connectors, we end up with a clean looking engine:
And this is what we were after, doesn’t look that much of work, but trust me, it is…: