Catalytic converters out of the car, nothing left from the exhaust after the downpipe, time to move the car back in the SL collection. Also first testrun after all the wiring harnesses are back in the car. Unfortunately my “spotter” cannot shut up…
You should be able to fire it up, even if you have done like me and removed the LMM wiring, however, it might run a little rough. What you will need is to put the the filters, LMM, rubber bends and so on back. Without the correct resistance for the inlets it will more or less instantly go into Limp home mode.
There should be clamps on the rubber tubes that are underneath the ETAs, they were missing, so replaced them with stainless ones, the real ones are just spring loaded.
Also take the opportunity to grease up the linkages for the throttle:
I also usually put some aluminium paste on the screws:
Connect everything as it was, I put waterfree grease on all electric connectors, the one I use is for putting on battery connectors, but vaseline will do you just as fine, important it is has no water in it:
Some new wires soldered to the pins according to the mapping done earlier. Mercedes has not followed any such as Red = +, Black = -, probably because most of the leads are data, but not even for the Electric motor, Black/White is +. So I just try to match up a good colour and document it, besides, the wires I use only come in about 10 colours. I use a wire with Radox 125 or 155 sheathing, they withstand high temperatures and chemicals, the wire tube I use is glass silk silicone and withstands high temperatures and chemicals also. But I guess any good products should be fine, this has worked well for me.
8 wires in total, 3 different wire dimensions, 2 different sizes of pins on the left side:
Make sure you put them back in the right position, a Little bit tricky to get the black surrounding back, when done, double check your wires are in the right position and then check again…:
Lets make a cable from this:
Sheathing with shrink tube on:
Had to drill the hole a little bigger, 10 mm to fit the cable nicely after the shrink tube made it fatter, Mercedes put some sealing gooh there:
Glue all joints to make it waterproof:
Done! Also with some more shrink tubing going over the end of the connector, just needs to be joined with the ETA now, but that is the easy part:
I have used a knife and hammer, a Dremel-tool and this time a small hacksaw to open the connectors. Hacksaw is by far the easiest and most secure. Cut along the mould line and then pry the halves apart:
Pry the two halves apart, make sure to note which way they were, since there is both alignment hole in the middle of the connector as on the outside of it. If you get this wrong the connector will not fit the socket in the car:
There are two small locks on the black plastic surrounding:
Before starting to touch things too much you will need to do some mapping of the wiring. I have found that the wire colours are unfortunately different between the cars I have been dealing with. So, get some really good photos of everything you do, has saved me many times and make a table of some sort for the wiring. This is what I use in Excel and of course it is in Swedish, but you get the point. I measured the wires to get the copper area, and then bought new ones accordning to the table. Unfortunately I haven’t located the exact wires and I use high grade wires so I tend to go for what is closest.
Ny kabelarea mm2
Motor +, övre
Motor -, undre
So, get your multimeter out and start by cutting one wire at a time and see where it ends in the connector which is clearly marked with numbers, same goes for the circuitboard which has letters:
The wires for the motor are however not marked on the soldering points, I basically call them top/bottom and have once researched which one is + and -. But anyway I simply write with a permanent marker what pin they go to:
The pastel coloured wires are “internal” and should remain, time for some cleaning and removing leftovers from the wires:
I resolder all resistors and wires and wipe the old flux residue away: